Kyoto was covered in heavy snow amid one of the most severe snowstorms
March 2023 - April 2023
At the end of 2022, after enduring months of lockdown Hong Kong was among the last to lift the lockdown policy to reconnect with the rest of the World, following the total uplift in PRC. In these months, it was legal requirements for Isaac to wear facial mask on the street and in kindergarten, which setback his communications by not being able to read others' lips.
Against all the odds - lack of available seats and arbitrary last-minute cancellation of flights from Hong Kong due to aviation industry not being able to recover after prolonged lockdown, recent fracture of Isaac's father due to bicycle accident followed by an open reduction and fixation surgery in Dec 2022 (and heavylifting using right shoulder was "prohibited"), we managed (with Plan B and Plan C in place) to set off the 18-day journey from Tokyo to Kyushu.
It was a pleasant journey enjoying Japan (including the tranquil Kyoto) before millions from Hong Kong and PRC started sweeping in. Since then Japan has ended its decades of inflation stagnation (e.g. a can of soft drink was selling ¥110 [USD1.02] from vending machine back in 1993 and was selling ¥120 [USD0.92 due to devalued ¥] in 2023 - in many years there were deflations) and entered into period of high inflation (Jan 2023 to Dec 2024 already seen a 10% to 40% jump in menu price).
First stop was the teppanyaki in Shibuya, visited in 2017 (before Isaac) and 2019 (with Isaac) which survived the pandemic.
Imahan had also survived the pandemic (their sauce for sukiyaki being available in Hong Kong). After more than three years of waiting and multiple attempts of home-made sukiyaki in Hong Kong, finally we could sit back and enjoyed the sukiyaki served by professionals.
In the morning, Isaac rode the amphibious Kaba bus "sailing" on Tokyo Bay. It was a bit chill during winter time but it was a lovely ride.
At nighttime, Isaac boarded a "modern" yakatabune (literally house shaped boat - Japanese traditional styled leisure boat) for a taste of nighttime sailing along Sumida River and Tokyo Bay, and overcoming the language barrier as the ambassador to other families.
Chaya-style (Teahouse) ryotei in Nagatacho of Chiyoda, next to the National Government and the National Diet (Congress) of Japan.
There was only one dining room with one dining table in this isolated Chaya - best place for covert politics.
We revisited other familiar places in Tokyo, such as Aoyama for tonkatsu (pork cutlet), which was getting more popular and longer queue at the door.
We also revisited Nihonbashi for unagi and unadon, who recognised Isaac despite after more than 3 years. Isaac really had given impression to the people around him and managed to secure another shinkansen toy set.
The seafood from Tsukiji was simply irresistible such that we had to change our plan to re-visit it in a few days.
There were also super yum first time visits for foods, such as western breakfast with hotcake and fresh juice in Ginza, the blackthroat fish set in Ginza, the tofu set near Tokyo Tower and Shibakoen, the fruity afternoon tea sets in Ginza and the ichigo daifuku next door, and the amazingly good bargain all-you-can-eat yakiniku in Shinjuku.
Other than food 🤣, Isaac had a pleasure time with mini pigs in Harajuku and had fun (and ice-cream) in the Legoland Discovery Centre on Odaiba.
Nobody would believe how much milk Isaac can finish in a day until they have the seen picture of bulk ordered milk delivered straight to the hotel in Ginza.
Ekiben (literally railway boxed meal) had been famous for their presentation and quality.
Setting off from Tokyo Station on Hokuriku Shinkansen E7/W7 Series (using the JR East Tokyo Wide Pass) for a day trip to Karuizawa.
It was Isaac's first time playing with snow and he enjoyed it. The ski resort used artificial snow - Isaac got to experience 100% natural snow later in Fujisan and in Kyoto (under severe snowstorm).
Fujisan (Mount Fuji) has been the icon of Japan, where photos of Fujisan taken from Arakura Fuji Sengen Jinja had been widely used to depict Japan.
The onsen ryokan Isaac stayed got into top 10 of onsen ryokan leaderboard - and since this stay it had became the favourite of Isaac's mother.
Isaac got to experience going up Fujisan along the Sabaru line, with a walk into Aokigahara Jukai (literally sea of trees) understanding why it was easy to lose direction inside, casual walk along 3 our of 5 Fuji lakes and into the narrow ice cave.
Fujiyoshida also has Fujikyu Highland, a theme park with huge and exciting rides which Isaac was too young for. However, a small part of Fujikyu Highland is called Thomas Land (for Thomas the Tank Engine) which has targeted Isaac's age.
This was the 360° view only 30 feet away from signage footpath - very easy to lose direction if not careful
Starting off by a long coach ride from Fujiyoshida to Tokyo Station, with a taste of the ramen in its underground Ramen Street.
First time Isaac taking Tokaido Shinkansen N700S from Tokyo to Kyoto - also first time we have been delayed up to 76 mins on any train in Japan.
Japan was hit by one of the most severe snowstorms in which most of the train lines were impacted. We were blessed to make it to Kyoto and the ryokan safely.
The ryokan in this ancient capital was specified by Isaac's mother, being her most favourite in Kyoto after the stay in 2017 before Isaac was born.
Snowstorm hit hard during the time in Kyoto so Isaac enjoyed it with everything (even our umbrella) covered in snow.
We were blessed to be able to visit the railway museum when the snowstorm retreated during daytime. Isaac got to "ride and drive" Shinkansen Series 0, the first "bullet train" shinkansen carrying passengers since 1964.
Nara, the ancient capital of the Yamato Dynasty before the capital was moved to Kyoto in 794AD starting the Heian period (Kyoto is old but Nara is even older!).
Apart from the ancient temples, Nara is famous of the "sacred" deer freely roaming in the park and on the roads.
Isaac was too young to make the entry fee to Universal Studio worthwhile, so most of time was spent in Tempozan, including the Legoland Discovery Centre (Yes, another one 🤣) and the Kaiyukan (Aquarium).
Again, the crab fest was specified by Isaac's mother for Osaka.
Kyushu is home to tonkotsu ramen (noodle in pork bone stewed broth), chicken in mizutaki and other decent food.
We ran through a couple of Hakata reman joints and mizutaki restaurants. One day we will travel across Kyushu for tonkotsu ramen from Hakata, Kumamoto, Kagoshima and Kitakyushu.
The snowstorm was not over yet - there was snow even in Kyushu.
Yufuin is a beautiful onsen town in Oita to the east of Kyushu, surrounded by mountain ranges. It takes approx. 135mins by the limited express Yufuin no Mori (literally the forest of Yufuin) from Hakata Station in Fukuoka.
The onsen and the food were exceptional. Unfortunately the quiet and elegant restaurant serving the amazing beef box had been closed thereafter. The swiss roll here was among the best we had (alongside Echigo-Yuzawa, another onsen town with ski resorts)
The snowstorm appeared to be chasing Isaac.